From Cuba we arrive in Mexico, a land of vast plains and Mayan ruins aplenty. But, lest not forget the local tipple, Tequilla and, even better, tacos, quesadillas and fajitas galore...Mexico will be food heaven!!
Our first stop in Mexico was Playa del Carmen [Hacienda Maria Bonita, $50 for dbl room, kitchen, private bath and balcony], again not particularly the backpackers experience but we were still in holiday mode! Having come straight from Cuba, it was plain to see how much wealthier Mexico is as a country, although I am sure that some areas are still considered third-world. The second thing I noticed was how friendly and helpful the people were, greeting us with an hola as we walked along the main strip, albeit that they were trying to entice us into their shops.
As far as resorts go, Playa del Carmen has it all and something for all tastes. Primarily aimed at the US market, it was interesting to see how the Yanks partied and a refreshing change from the somewhat sleazy resorts us Brits are use to (although Cancún is probably a different experience altogether).
The nightlife has a fun and buzzy vibe, with alfresco dining and watering holes at every corner. By day, the soft, fine white sands and clear, turquoise waters make the beach very enticing.
Whilst in Playa del Carmen, we visited Chichen Itza, a fairly unmemorable site of Mayan ruins well over populated with tourists, but a place we felt obliged to visit just because we were in the local vicinity.
From Playa del Carmen our 'proper' travelling began, as we got the night bus to Palenque. Initially hoping to stay in El Panchen (which is highly recommended), by the time we arrived in Palenque we were so tired that we opted for the first hostel that we stumbled upon. That same day we hailed a colectivo, the easiest, cheapest and most reliable form of transport in Mexico, and visited Palenque, a site of Mayan ruins shrouded in jungle.
Palenque really was quite a serene and tranquil place, much better than Chichen Itza, with the jungle alive with birds and monkeys calling to each other. I was quite disappointed that I did not see any monkeys....that is, until we were about to leave. As we waited for our ride back to the hotel I decided to "monkey around" and did my best monkey call in the hope that a monkey would at least humour me and call back. Anyway, as I looked up I saw something very large rustling in the trees and, lo-and-behold, a big, black, spider monkey was happily swinging away! Maybe it was just coincidence but I quite fancy myself as Jane of the Jungle....Steve Tarzan, me Jane! Seeing my first monkey in its natural habitat was definitely the highlight of the day and well worth the ravenous mozzies who decided to feast on me that day! [Lesson #413...be generous with the insect repellent!]
Palenque town itself is a great place to sit at a street stall, munching on the most exquisite tacos and watching the world go by; Mayan women and children selling their trinkets, shoeshine boys awaiting their next customer, people just going about their daily business.
From Palenque we headed south to San Cristobal de Las Casas [Le Gite Del Sol www.legitedelsol.com], a very quaint and peaceful colonial town. We opted to go with Raul & Alex [150 Pesos, daily @ 9.30 from the cross in the main plaza, no need to book], a tour lead by a half-indigenous guide, to the Mayan village of Chamula. This really was like stepping back in time!
Chamula is not governed by Mexico and is even 1 hour behind, which they believe to be God´s time. Only people who are born in Chamula can live there and if you change religion you have to leave, never to return! The people are extremely religious, but not in a fanatical way, this is just their way of living happier and more content lives. The village is controlled by a number of spiritual leaders and it is strictly forbidden to take pictures of these people....being superstitious they believe that their photos will be used in witchcraft! The police, or rather, criminals who have to police the village as community service, will take your camera away if you even attempt to photograph them! The same goes if you try to take photos in the Church, the most sacred place (albeit that the locals can drink alcohol and smoke in the church, and even kill chickens as part of a ritual). They also drink Coca-Cola in abundance, believing that burping is a way of releasing the evil spirits inside them....this is my excuse from now on!
I was informed that many missionaries from the US have visited Chamula in order to try and convert the people into a more civillised and westernised way of living, believing the people to be uncivillised and their beliefs wrong. However, having been to Chamula and having witnessed these so-called "uncivillised" people, I can honestly say that they seem very happy in their lives; they are not harming or offending anybody and, in my opinion, they should be left alone. Afterall, each to their own...
The following day we visited the Cañon del Sumidero for a 90-minute boat cruise along crocodile infested waters, another real treat and something I would highly recommend (although the Aussies sitting behind me were naturally unfazed or unimpressed by our four legged friends!).
After eating our way around an amazing and very interesting country, and having the rotund bellies to prove it, we must bid fairwell to Mexico, as we make our way a little reluctantly to Guatemala...

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