around Central America. But what a very welcome and pleasant surprise it is when you realise how truly amazing this place is. With the nicest, most friendly people and with the most spectacular and beautiful scenery, Guatemala has so much to offer and I defy anybody not to be encapsulated by it all!After a somewhat bum-numbing 12-hour journey from San Cristobal, we arrived at Panajachal, Lake Atitlan, our first destination in Guatemala. We arrived in Panajachal on Steve´s birthday thus opting to stay the night, although our attempts to take advantage of the abundant happy hours available failed miserably. Unfortunately, after so much travelling, we were too tired to celebrate so vowed to celebrate the following day in a little village called San Marcos La Laguna, to coincide with the annual 2-day festival held there (25th & 26th April).
After having some drinks at our hotel (http://www.aaculaax.com/) - which overlooked the lake and volcanoes and was complete paradise - and after Steve having fallen over and cutting half of his face (nothing to do with the wine of course), we hit the festival. This truly was an experience. The festival was like one huge party overspilling into the streets; loud music blaring, a mini fairground, locals just basically getting bladdered!!
We bought some beers and were chatting between ourselves when a local man named Patrick approached us. Needless to say we got some more beers in and spent well over an hour with him.....we spoke English...he spoke Spanish/a Mayan dialect...we couldn´t understand each other one iota, but it was fun! However, we clearly got him too drunk and he became rather emotional and, after sucking on my neck like a leech, started to cry when we tried to leave! We then spent another half hour or so trying to escape him! The locals found the scene rather amusing and sat laughing at us...I´m glad we provided some entertainment for the evening!
After spending 3 nights in San Marcos, we moved to Jaibilito, where we spent a further three nights at the most magical hotel, La Casa del Mundo (http://www.lacasadelmundo.com/). Perched on a secluded cliff, built into the contours of the terrain, La Casa del Mundo is the perfect place for relaxation; whiling away the hours in a hammock, or jumping from the terrace into the freshwater lake! The only downside is that a "family" dinner is served, which is great if you like that American/Canadian "we-are-one-big-cheesy-and-fake-happy-family" kind of vibe but naturally, being British, we don´t!!
In total we spent a week relaxing by the lake which was really tranquil and mystical. The views of the volcanoes were spectacular and it was so nice just watching the locals going about their everyday business; washing themselves and their clothes in the lake, paddling their canoes to go fishing. The only exception to our relaxation was the 4-hour mountainous hike that we undertook from San Marcos to another village, Santa Cruz. But this was a mere mole hill compared to what was yet to come...
From Lake Atitlan we ventured to Quetzaltenango, known as Xela to the locals (Hotel Olivas, very friendly owners, Q150 for dbl bedroom, private bath. & cable...perfect for footie!). For some absurd reason we thought it would be a great idea to climb a volcano! Or should I say, Steve´s great idea! Being the gym freak that I was before I came out here I thought, no sweat! But, in Steve´s words, oh-boy-oh-boy - NOTHING could have prepared me for this!
The volcano in question was Volcan Santa Maria, a ´modest´ 3775 metres in height. The climb was to coincide with the full moon and is coordinated every full moon by Quetzaltrekkers (http://www.quetzaltrekkers.com/guathome.html), an excellent, non-profit organisation who donate all proceeds to a local school and to housing street kids.
We started our ascent at 12am on Wednesday (when you lot were waking up from your nice, relaxing, peaceful slumber!), having had only 1 hours sleep beforehand. Let´s just say after the first hour I was half dead and
wishing this was just a terrible dream! Throughout the climb I literally kept jolting from a trance, thinking I was dreaming, only to be disappointed when I realised I wasn´t! This was the hardest and most physically and mentally challenging thing I have ever done, and I didnt cope too well with the altitude, having to stop at regular intervals due to dizzy spells. Needless to say, with the exception of the guides, I was penultimately the last person to the top, with Steve the last....albeit that he was protecting me and giving me a little push when I got stuck on the rocks - hey, these boulders are particularly hard to negotiate when you have less than average length legs, almost like climbing several mountains!!!
4 hours and 50 minutes later, we reached the peak, although it took a while to sink in. I thought someone was playing a really cruel trick, rather like a mirage in the desert! But, the blood, sweat and (almost) tears were worth it Sitting on the peak, high above the clouds, we sat in sub-zero temperatures and watched the sun rise! Truly cold, but truly amazing!
The ascent was much easier as you would expect, although this was a challenge in itself. I discovered the best way to get down was to slide on your bum, although this was not out of choice! Eventually we reached flat and civillised lands 3 hours later and, by the time we got back to the hotel, I could have cried! NEVER. EVER. AGAIN!!! Or maybe a smaller one next time!
After Xela we travelled to Cobán, via Guatemala City, where we visited Semuc Champey and Finca Santa Maria, a small coffee plantation. The coffee plantation was extremely interesting - never again will I take a cup of coffee forgranted, especially given the arduous process to make it and the pittance that the workers are paid to do so! Steve even had his first ever cup of coffee!
We opted to go to Semuc Champey with a travel agency, situated within the hotel [???]. It is possible to go it alone, however, we decided to pay the Q260 for a hassle free adventure.
Semuc Champey is a natural wonder, comprising a limestone bridge formation with cascading pools, meeting the underground river via a tumultuous waterfall. Initially the steep 1.5 hour hike seems like a bad idea, however, once you reach the viewing deck, the almost aerial view of Semuc Champey, surrounded by lush green jungle, makes it worthwhile.
Our guide, René, was excellent. Very comical, he was also a bit of a daredevil and, after our glorious swim in the pools, helped us to climb perilously down to the rear of the waterfall. Clinging on with our lives and using every tiny crevice for our slippery ascent, one false move meant dicing with death...or at the very least a huge hospital bill! Not many guides do this so we were very lucky - René was a real life Action Man! Following Semuc Champey we visited the Lanquin cave; a hot, sweaty, slippery and pretty unspectacular attraction.
From Cobán we got the shuttle to Flores in order to reach our next destination, Tikal. As far as Tikal is concerned, we truly did save the best Mayan ruins until last. The 2.30am wake up call and longish drive from Flores became worthwhile once we reached the top of Pyramid IV, Tikal's highest point, and watched the sunrise through the mist. Shrouded in thick, dense jungle, Tikal came alive with a frenzy of activity the higher the sun rose; a variety of birds sang to each other and howler monkeys could be heard marking their territories in the distance, a cry almost resembling something out of Jurassic Park. There's nothing quite like being at one with nature!
As well as having an abundance of impressive ruins, some with amazing panoramic views, the fact that Tikal is swathed in jungle means that there is an abundance of wildlife too. Spider monkeys swinging in the trees, toucans and parrots swooping low, Tikal is something else! There is just something so calming and almost magical about the place.
Guatemala is a country that has truly surprised and inspired me! Given its extremely violent and unstable past and the fact that any guide book will tell you that it is generally a dangerous place, the people are probably the nicest and friendliest that we have encountered so far. They will always stop to help and, unlike the Cuban's, never expect anything in return. They laugh and joke with each other and are always respectful and courteous of each other, despite the hot, cramped and uncomfortable conditions of the notorious "chicken buses" (the best travelling experience and the best way to mingle with the locals) - something to be learnt on the London Underground! All social classes integrate with one another with no hostility or bitterness towards one another. Being here really is an eye opener.
From Tikal we sadly and reluctantly left Guatemala and headed to Belize [bus from Flores to Munchor de Mencos Q30, 'illegal' departure fee Q10, taxi to Benque $5BZE, bus to Belize City], safe in the knowledge that we will be back...
[Photos: 2 - Lake Atitlan; 3 - Chichicastenango; 4 - Tikal]
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