It doesn't rain but it pours in El Salvador, as we arrived in La Palma hitting a tropical storm. But this was just the beginning. 10 minutes after alighting the bus Steve suddenly realised that he had left his beloved camera on board, along with several lenses, his Ipod...However, fate has brought us a knight in shining armour in the form of Jimmy, a fluent English local who happened to say a passing hello as we got off the bus. After a bit of rushing around Jimmy had managed to persuade a random local man to follow the bus that was travelling a further 3-hours to San Salvador and thus Steve's bag was returned to its rightful owner. Who would have thought that you could lose something and get it back in El Salvador.
Jimmy took us to a local bar-cum-gambling den, a novelty for the local men as not only is it unheard of for women to set foot in this place, but more so a woman that was kicking-ass at pool. Jimmy turned out to be one of the most interesting people that I have ever met.
An ex-gang banger (of the non-sexual kind), Jimmy told us how he was disguised as a girl as a small child in order to flee El Salvador during the war, due to his father being a soldier (the army being responsible for the massacre). Three border crossings later he arrived in the US beginning his life in a Chicago gang from the age of 7 and ending his "career" some 12 years later with a near fatal beating and a bullet through his chest (to which we saw several scars). With this near death experience and the birth of his first son, Jimmy turned his life around, until 2 years ago when he was deported due to new immigration laws targeting gang members. Clearly a much more spiritual person now and very wise for his still young 29 years, Jimmy is living proof that people can change their lives for the better.
Following several beers, Jimmy invited us to his home to meet his girlfriend and his children. Even though they had the most basic of accommodation, with water pouring in from the storm outside, they were a very happy family and the kids very well-behaved and playful, jumping all over Steve, proving that money can't buy happiness!
It was here that we were introduced to the local Salvadoran cuisine, pupusas. Served as corn meal parcels with a mish-mash of cheese and frijoles, they were delicious and believe me, so much better than they sound! Finally, having had a very interesting day and an enjoyable evening, we bid adios to Jimmy and his family, thus leaving the creative and colourful town that is La Palma.
Next stop Suchitoto [Posada Altovista, $15.75, shared bath], a small town that took quite a battering during the civil war. Evidently Suchitoto has rebounded well and its extremely civilised ambiance makes it a great place to people watch at the plaza or stroll to the beautiful Lake Suchitlan to relax away the afternoon hours.
After one night in San Salvador we headed to the hectic city of Santa Ana. As soon as you alight the bus you are thrust into a world of chaos, with a sea of people swarming in their droves, part of Santa Ana's charm. Parque Central was much less chaotic and it was here that we spent the afternoon drinking beer and watching the world go by...swiftly followed by, dare I say, Pizza! What is it about beer that makes junk food so appealing?!?
Our trip in Central America just wouldn't be complete without one last volcano hike, this time taking the form of Volcan Izalco at Cerro Verde (bus 240 from Santa Ana to entrance $1, entrance fee $1, 11am guide $1). This hike was quite tricky, having a fairly strenuous downwards hike before we could even begin the ascent, which itself was very steep in places. Nevertheless, as with all volcanoes, the view from the top and the calm and tranquility of the surroundings made it worthwhile. Not a heavily trodden gringo hotspot (we didn't see any), it was great to hang out with the ever friendly locals. The sandy trail on the descent was even more fun and reminded me of volcano boarding...minus the board!
Sadly, our time in El Salvador, and Central America, reached its finale. Despite our initial reservations about El Salvador and the fact that we were considering bypassing it altogether, El Salvador really was the icing on the cake and the perfect place to complete our Latin American adventure.
13 border crossings and a lifetime of memories and unforgettable experiences later, we must now say a final farewell. Adios Central America.
Steve Says:
144 days, 9 countries and over 300 hours on the bus, we bid farewell to Central America. It has been an amazing journey of cultures, landscapes, people and countless experiences. From swimming within touching distance of sharks and rays and walking alongside lava flow, to the apparently dodgy dealings on the border with the money changing men.
It's a land of contrast; one week you could be staying in a gringo hotspot, with tourists milling around in their droves, the next completely off the beaten track with no other traveler in sight.
Naturally Costa Rica and the islands of Belize and Honduras provided the holiday of dreams. But the likes of Nicaragua and El Salvador provided the raw experience that I was looking for.
