After five days in bustling Singapore, sampling the delights at the likes of Chinatown and Little India, supping the most expensive beers in history at the Raffles Hotel (courtesy of Catanach Senior to raise a glass to his 60th birthday) and even acquiring new hair dos thanks to some Toni & Guy students, we flew to Phuket in amazing Thailand.After spending our first night in a cockroach infested room in Phuket's oldtown, we headed to Phi Phi with one aim in mind...gatecrashing our good friends Kerry and Andy's romantic getaway!
If heaven is a place on earth then Phi Phi is it. Fine, white sandy beaches and breathtaking rock formations, with limestone karsks rising from the vivid, turquoise waters and mystical morning mists smothering the jungle landscape, let you know that you have arrived in Koh Phi Phi - tropical paradise!
After settling in our hotel we naturally went on the hunt for food, finding a small, local tin hut along a back street vending the most delicious fried rice and Pad Thai!! For me, Thai food is the best in the world!!! I could eat it all day, every day which, luckily for us, we shall be doing so for the duration of our stay. And the more local the vendor, the bigger and more friendly the smile.
Of course a visit to a new country wouldn't be complete without a long, hard slog up hills and through jungles...so this is exactly what we did. After first conquering a very steep climb to the sunrise viewpoint, affording the most 
stunning postcard picture perfect vistas of Tonsai Bay, we trekked through mosquito ridden jungle, across tranquil beaches, trespassed a sea gypsie settlement and then, last but not least, climbed rocky outcrops and waded the sea to reach our destination...the Phi Phi Island Village.
stunning postcard picture perfect vistas of Tonsai Bay, we trekked through mosquito ridden jungle, across tranquil beaches, trespassed a sea gypsie settlement and then, last but not least, climbed rocky outcrops and waded the sea to reach our destination...the Phi Phi Island Village.Emerging from around the corner like Swampy and Swampette we bumped into Kerry and Andy in the shallow waters of this honeymooners hotspot or, as in the case of Kel and Andy, the perfect place to celebrate an exotic engagement!
After several beers around the pool and a small taster of the nightlife at Tonsai Bay, Kerry and Andy (regrettably) gave up their 5* luxury for night to bed down backpacker stylee! After a sleepless night induced by mozzie bites and cockroach paranoia and generally not being too enamoured by our Prisoner Cellblock H type accommodation, I think it's safe to say that they won't be rushing out to buy the Lonely Planet Southeast Asia on a Shoestring just yet!
The following day we took a boat trip-cum-snorkeling tour of the surrounding islands, including Phi Phi Ley, location of Maya Bay aka The Beach. The 
snorkeling around Phi Phi is fantastic! After first spotting a resting leopard shark at Shark Point, we then headed to a beautiful, powdery white beach with calm, turquoise waters. It was here that Kerry very bravely overcame her fear of snorkeling and also where she saw her first shark, albeit that it was sadly tied up. Despite our protests and Western crusade to "save the shark", we sadly had to leave the shark to his fate, undoubtedly turning up in a Tom Yum soup somewhere...perhaps down at Phi Phi Island Village!
snorkeling around Phi Phi is fantastic! After first spotting a resting leopard shark at Shark Point, we then headed to a beautiful, powdery white beach with calm, turquoise waters. It was here that Kerry very bravely overcame her fear of snorkeling and also where she saw her first shark, albeit that it was sadly tied up. Despite our protests and Western crusade to "save the shark", we sadly had to leave the shark to his fate, undoubtedly turning up in a Tom Yum soup somewhere...perhaps down at Phi Phi Island Village!As well as being home to the beautiful, jungle fringed Maya Bay where Leo Dicaprio himself once stood, Phi Phi Ley revealed one of the best snorkeling spots I have ever seen. The sun penetrated the water revealing a magical world of colourful marine life and pristine coral, rather like swimming in a life-sized aquarium. It was every snorkelers dream! As if the day couldn't get any better the sunset cruise back to Koh Phi Phi was the perfect end to a perfect day.
After another hike to Phi Phi Island Village, this time wading through chest high water in an ensuing storm, weighted down with a dozen beers, we had a lovely
evening to celebrate Kel and Andy's engagement, crashed on their luxury air-conditioned floor and even (very cheekily) helped ourselves to the breakfast buffet the next morning. There's nothing quite like backpacking, I say!
evening to celebrate Kel and Andy's engagement, crashed on their luxury air-conditioned floor and even (very cheekily) helped ourselves to the breakfast buffet the next morning. There's nothing quite like backpacking, I say!Following another successful afternoon of snorkeling we donned our glad rags and hit the town, stuffing ourselves with a BBQ buffet (a treat courtesy of Kel and Andy, thankyou) before hitting the beach for an amazing fire display and seaside bevies. Another perfect day and an evening that we didn't want to end. As the proverb says, time flies when you're having fun and as if in a flash, it was time to say farewell once again, returning to Phuket to meet up with my little brother Sean.
After showing us the sights of what is perhaps the unluckiest island in the world, we spent 3 days aboard Sean's liveaboard at the Similan Islands. Unfortunately, being a non diver, and Steve having recurring nosebleeds and therefore unable to dive despite how much he wanted to, we couldn't fully appreciate this world class diving site, although judging by the happy customers (not to mention the amazing photos) it was pretty damn good! Nevertheless, we splashed around and snorkeled a fair bit and generally spent the three days eating, drinking and sleeping, in true Thai fashion.
Feeling slightly queasy and with bed bug bites aplenty, we were somewhat relieved to hit dry, solid ground once again, this time being treated to true Thai 
hospitality by way of Por, Sean's lovely girlfriend. After taking us to visit the 120 year old monk and teaching us how to pray at the beautiful temple, Por and her friend took us for a lovely Thai meal at a seafood restaurant. The food was to die for and naturally we stuffed ourselves to bursting point. Por treated us to a wonderful day and evening.
hospitality by way of Por, Sean's lovely girlfriend. After taking us to visit the 120 year old monk and teaching us how to pray at the beautiful temple, Por and her friend took us for a lovely Thai meal at a seafood restaurant. The food was to die for and naturally we stuffed ourselves to bursting point. Por treated us to a wonderful day and evening. Afflicted by the Phuket curse, what with the almost painful bed bug bites, one lost snorkel and a broken camera, we made our way to the City of Angels, Bangkok.
With its death-defying gridlocked roads, bustling verging on chaotic streets and a nightlife to suit every whim, Bangkok is very much like Marmite: you either love it or loathe it. As for us? We LOVE it!!
Bangkok is a truly fun city with surprises at every turn. Having been here only the year before we were only too happy to return to the infamous Khao San Road, perhaps the best place in the world for people watching: food hawkers line the 
streets with their vending carts, knocking up Phad Thai and a wealth of mouth-watering concoctions to tantalise the tastebuds; cries of "ping pong show, you want ping pong show", "massaaaaaage" and "I give you good price" penetrate the air; and an array of jewellery, antiques and counterfeit goods are to be bargained for within this carnival atmosphere. Despite our daily pilgrimage here we stayed around the corner, in Rambuttri Road, sampling the best Thai foods from our local street vendor and nursing several beers (and Changovers) in the contrastingly relaxing ambience. I even managed to bribe Steve with a 50p curry and several beers to come with me for an obligatory viewing of The Beach. Well...it had to be done!
streets with their vending carts, knocking up Phad Thai and a wealth of mouth-watering concoctions to tantalise the tastebuds; cries of "ping pong show, you want ping pong show", "massaaaaaage" and "I give you good price" penetrate the air; and an array of jewellery, antiques and counterfeit goods are to be bargained for within this carnival atmosphere. Despite our daily pilgrimage here we stayed around the corner, in Rambuttri Road, sampling the best Thai foods from our local street vendor and nursing several beers (and Changovers) in the contrastingly relaxing ambience. I even managed to bribe Steve with a 50p curry and several beers to come with me for an obligatory viewing of The Beach. Well...it had to be done!As well as saying a few prayers to the Emerald Buddha and admiring the stunning architecture of the Grand Palace, we watched the Royal Battalion as they practised their procession for the King's birthday, had sunset beers at Wat Arun and, last but not least, made the obligatory visit to the HUGE weekend Chatuchak market, truly the mother of all markets! Had we not had three months left of traveling, we would have shopped 'til we literally dropped!
The rest of our time in Bangkok was spent eating, drinking and sleeping...eating, drinking and sleeping...a lifestyle almost iconic to Thailand. A trip to Patpong provided some very amusing "entertainment" in the Go-Go bars, with one girl thrilled to be given the opportunity to practise her best air guitar!! As for the ping pong, we decided our stomachs weren't quite strong enough...
Six days later, having collected our Chinese Visas and feeling somewhat lethargic due to our newfound "lazy" lifestyle, it was time to head north, taking the overnight sleeper train to Chiang Mai.
Much smaller but with almost as many temples as Bangkok, Chiang Mai is a lovely city with a mellow vibe, a tropical climate by day and lovely and cool by night! We visited Doi Suthep for sunset, the most beautiful temple with the most ornate and intricate architecture. I was ready to convert to Buddhism there and then! From the calm of the temple we then headed to the storm of the boxing 
stadium for our first taster of Muay Thai! So quick and stealth like, it was hard to believe that such tiny little men could do so much damage!! Some of those men would certainly wake up with more than just a little headache the next morning! Naturally Steve and I practised our best moves (on each other) on the walk home.
stadium for our first taster of Muay Thai! So quick and stealth like, it was hard to believe that such tiny little men could do so much damage!! Some of those men would certainly wake up with more than just a little headache the next morning! Naturally Steve and I practised our best moves (on each other) on the walk home.From Chiang Mai we took a slightly vomit inducing 4-hour bus ride to Pai, a misty, relaxing town lying at the foot of several mountains and surrounded by dense jungles, waterfalls and hot springs. With a slight "hippie" vibe, most travellers plan to stay for 2 days yet end up staying for 2 weeks. Pai simply oozes calm and serenity, with an air of mysticism which encapsulates even the most cynical and hardened of travellers! We loved it here, staying in the most basic of accommodation in the most beautiful of surroundings, the gardens awash with a rainbow of colourful flowers. It really was a sanctuary and the perfect place for R&R (not that we really needed any!).
Whilst in Pai we met Naj, an English chick, and Amina and Dennis, a lovely Danish couple, whom became our trusty companions. And thus the nights were spent, drinking Chang and buckets of Sampsong, sitting around the bonfire getting all "hippie" and spiritual and practising poi (which, incidentally, is remarkably like dancing - the more drunk you get, the better you think you are at it!). Our nights in Pai were a whole lot of fun! As for the days...well...apart from nursing very sore heads and lounging by the local pool, Steve and I took the opportunity to learn some Thai cooking, having already eaten our way around Thailand.
Although the hot sweats and the smell of herbs, spices and, more specifically, sweet basil threatened to see me rushing to the nearest toilet, the Thai cooking proved to be a whole lot of fun. With Phad Thai being my favourite dish I was a little disconcerted to find that this was our first to cook, not good when I could barely focus let alone eat. Nevertheless, a whole batch of spring rolls and three more dishes later, not to mention a very educational trip to the local market, I was right as rain again! Thai food is the most exquisite, with the most basic and simple of ingredients infusing to make the most titillating of tastes. Steve, as always, was a natural connoiseur although I think it's fair to say that we all found a new vocation in life! And as for our spring rolls...D.E.L.I.C.I.O.U.S...I may have to get myself a stall down Walthamstow market!!!
Although the hot sweats and the smell of herbs, spices and, more specifically, sweet basil threatened to see me rushing to the nearest toilet, the Thai cooking proved to be a whole lot of fun. With Phad Thai being my favourite dish I was a little disconcerted to find that this was our first to cook, not good when I could barely focus let alone eat. Nevertheless, a whole batch of spring rolls and three more dishes later, not to mention a very educational trip to the local market, I was right as rain again! Thai food is the most exquisite, with the most basic and simple of ingredients infusing to make the most titillating of tastes. Steve, as always, was a natural connoiseur although I think it's fair to say that we all found a new vocation in life! And as for our spring rolls...D.E.L.I.C.I.O.U.S...I may have to get myself a stall down Walthamstow market!!!
Thus our extremely relaxing and indulgent three weeks in the land of smiles came to an end. Next stop, laidback Laos...
[Photos: 1 - Steve enjoying a beer at the Raffles Hotel; 2 - Koh Phi Phi ; 3 - Kerry snorkeling; 4 - Breakfast at Phi Phi Island Village; 5 - Dinner with Por; 6 - Eating Phad Thai; 7 - Steve outside our lodgings in Pai; 8 - Cooking Lessons, Pai]
